Home to the "Islamic Calvinists"

During the last decade Kayseri has become one of the industrial centres of Turkey. But what is remarkable is that economic success has gone in hand in hand with adherence to Islamic principles. Dorian Jones reports

The "Ipek furniture factory" is one of the city's most famous success stories. Proud owner Saffet Arslan is the classic rags to riches story. He started as a carpenters apprentice, working "under the leather," as they say in Turkish.

From there he established a furniture business making sofas. Today with a turnover of nearly a $100 million, his business includes shopping malls, carpet and metal factories.

But that success according to Arslan did not involve him compromising his religious beliefs, in fact he says it inspired him to success. "I understand Islam as a religion that calls on people to live humbly, to not do anything unfair, to be honest, and productive," Arslan says. "These are the rules I follow in business and this is the reason for my success."

Tradition, faith, wealth

Islam also tells him not to see business as an end in itself, but rather a means to an end: "My success enables me to bring wealth to the whole community. This is the philosophy of businessmen in Kayseri. I have built two schools, and I have 200 children under scholarship."

Religion in Kayseri plays a central part in people's lives here. The city has a traditional reputation; the only place to get a drink is at the international hotel. But where in the past in Turkey business was dominated by the country's secular elite, which firmly kept religion out of the boardroom, in Kayseri it has a central role.

And it seems to be a winning combination. Kayseri is booming. It holds the world record for the number of factories opening in day - 190. The city boasts 50 out 500 of the wealthiest people in Turkey.

But you would use never guess it walking on the streets of the city. There are few expensive cars, as ostentatious behaviour is frowned upon. Kayseri does have a rather puritanical feel to it. But that shouldn't be a surprise according Gerald Gnaus of the European Stability Initiative (ESI).

Calvinism – a new form of Turkish Islam

Gnaus recently published a report, which draws a parallel with the 19th century Calvinists. Gnaus argues Kayseri buries the widely held belief that Islam and capitalism are incompatible.

"Many people in Western Europe, very serious thinkers too, have held that Islam is a fatalistic religion and that it suits a trading economy but not an industrial economy," Gnaus says. "What we found in Kayseri is that on the contrary, the kind of characteristic traits that Max Weber attributed to the Calvinists - very hard working, very sober, not given to showing ostentatious shows of wealth - are the characteristic traits you find in businessmen in Kayseri."

The term "Islamic Calvinism" caused a bit of a stir in Turkey, being angrily denounced by some in the Islamic media. But in Kayseri most seemed quite happy with the label.

Mustafa Boydak is the head of Kayseri chamber of commerce. He also runs one of the largest companies in the city Boydak. He also sees parallels with the 19th century puritans:

"In Calvinism there is this understanding that work is a form of worship, and Kayseri people share that understanding. Islam also teaches us to be tolerant, and open to new ideas, which is very important in business, and to people living here. But Christianity shares this ideal, and the influence of Christianity here is important. For centuries many Christian Greeks and Armenians lived here, and were very involved in business and this too has shaped people's ideals."

Women and the Kayseri boom

But, how do women fare in this "Islamic Calvinist" world? Safak Ciftci is one of a growing number of businesswomen joining the Kayseri boom. While she acknowledges the city is religious conservative, doesn't it stand in the way of her doing business?

"Nobody says I don't want to do business with you because you are woman. The most that maybe can happen is that they don't want to shake your hand, you know, so what, I don't have to shake everybody's hand."

According to Ciftci, there are at least 80 women who are either owners or in senior management positions in the industrial park where her factory is. Their success and apparent acceptance in what was once a male domaine, is a striking example of the ongoing transformation in Kayseri.

"Turkey is potentially an inspiration to other Muslim countries," says Gnaus, "but it is also hard to emulate, without the kind of political freedom and economic freedom that in the end has made it all possible. It is really a question of the chicken and the egg."

Dorian Jones

Qantara.de

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